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You never talk of a "Cornish pasty" in Cornwall. It's always
pasty, pure and simple. The second most important thing to remember
when considering this savoury parcel is that a proper pasty is a meal
in itself. Putting it on a plate with chips is ignorant and a sure
sign that the kitchen from where it emerged spared little regard for
the quality of the pasty itself. Third, it is important to note that
the filling always goes into the pasty raw.
To make an authentic pasty, the vegetables, comprising onions,
potatoes and swede (they call it turnip in Cornwall!), must be sliced.
The meat, usually skirt or chuck steak, should be chopped. Baking
takes upwards of an hour, during which time the filling steams and its
flavours blend together. Freshly baked pasties stay hot for more than
an hour.
The Pastry
In Cornwall, there's no consensus, as to what
type of pastry makes the best pasty. Some say short, others that rough
puff is better. Both schools agree that the texture has to be firm
enough to hold the filling without cracking or splitting. Ann Muller
uses the ingredients for short pastry but handles them more like a
pate brisee, mixing the fats in lightly, but kneading the dough so it
is slightly stretchy. This is an important trick because it makes
filling the pasties easier.
The pasty is the national symbol of Cornwall. Pasty myths and legends
abound. Nobody can quite pinpoint when pasties originated, but there's
a letter in existence from a baker to Henry VIII's Jane Seymour,
saying "...hope this pasty reaches you in better condition than
the last one ...". 
Over the centuries they became the staple diet of Cornish miners,
engineers, blacksmiths. Everyone but fishermen. "It's bad luck to
take a pasty on board," explains Ann. When fishermen set sail,
they leave their pasties ashore - one reason why home-made pasties are
traditionally marked with the owner's initials, to avoid confusion. On
terra firma the portents are clearly more auspicious: "According
to superstition, it's pasties that keep the devil out of Cornwall,"
she says.
Today, visitors know that a trip to Cornwall would not be complete
without tasting a Cornish pasty. Visitors have come from as far away
as New Zealand just to taste Ann Muller's pasties, and one lady wanted
some to take back to Egypt. Famous regulars include Jenny Agutter,
Rodney Bewes and the late Eva Mitchell, who was the oldest lady on the
Lizard. Plenty of people from all over the world want to sample an
authentic pasty and see how one is made. "I even give classes on
my counter top. I must be the only pasty school in the world!"
says Ann.
Wherever Cornish people go pasties soon follow. "Cousin Jacks"
who emigrated to the United States brought their pasty know-how with
them. In Michigan, a big mining area, pasties are still more popular
than hamburgers. Mexico has "Pastees", Argentina has "empanadas"
and Italy has "calzone".
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